Yesterday, I read a post named “ Silly things I made during my travel “ by a blogger whom I follow.
Then , I was thinking about the silly things I made during my wanderlust years. There are countless number of events including
Riding a motor bike, unskillfully and had a fall paired with a fracture of my arm in Thailand,
Going to Komodo national park when I was having period ( Do you know komodo dragons can smell the blood from a few kilometers away and can bite you straight away as they are forever hungry carnivores. )
Swimming in river of jungle ( Taman Negara ) in Malaysia ( without knowing how to swim ) and almost drowned.
Before you get irritated with my silliness, or should I call it more like stupidity, I would like to write about Amazing Bagan.
Bagan is situated in central part of Burma, standing on the Eastern part of Ayeyarwady River. Bagan Era existed from 107 until 13th century and reined by 55 kings, there are lots of stories behind. For example, there was the time, people left pretty ladies for the human sacrifice at the area of big bird who only wishes to eat beautiful girls. It makes more sense to think that giant bird cannot be defeated by villages and instead of letting it come to village again and again , runing everything randomly, the villagers decided to choose girls to feed the bird. I was making joke with my best friend that I would not be eaten even if I was born in Bagan that time. Haha. According to the legend, the bird ate 4300 girls until it was killed by a hero. There is a display of the statue of bird as well as the tunnel area where girls used to hide from the bird.
Some pagodas were built by a dedicated hero whose spirit still linger around the pagoda. For example, near Dama Yazaka pagoda, the tourists was taking photos and later he could see the image of a man wearing an ancient attire in his photos. Creepy! Isn’t it?
Some pagodas were built to compensate for the sins of the kings or to show the remorse. For example, King A Laun Si Thu made the mistake of vowing “ I am the most powerful King ever in Bagan” although there are 44 kings previously. He became blind because of his inappropriate statement, punished by the spirits of the previous Kings. To counteract his mistake, he made the statues of 44 Kings in gold and worshipped in the pagoda called “ Kadot Palin “.
Another example is Dhammangyan Gyi pagoda which was built by crule King “ Narya Thu” ruled AD 1163-1165. He killed his father and brother as he wanted to get the power. After the cruel killings, his guilt haunted him and had continuous nightmares. He asked National Counsellor, a monk for the advice to get rid of nightmares. The monk asked him to build the pagoda. To outdo his predecessor, he recruited the best architects from the country and made a statement that “ all the bricks should be strong and should align to adjacent bricks without any gap in between. If a pin can be inserted between two adjacent bricks, the hand of the bricklayer responsible will be chopped off”. The pagoda could withstand the earthquakes even though there is some dark stories behind. ( Bear in mind that, whatever the Kings did, was not reflection of real Buddhism and Buddhism would never allow anyone to kill for any kind of compensation. The building of pagoda cannot compensate for the sins too. It was just a cultural belief of that time )
Some pagodas have happy stories as they were built by good Kings who ruled the country with rule of Laws and justice.
I think I am getting lost in the stories of pagoda which can be very long. Really, Bagan has many stories, many types of buildings built in different Eras. When Myanmar Government ordered the residents to move out of area of ancient buildings, the place became deserted at night. It has been a good decision ever as people can destroy our archaeological value.
When I visited Bagan in 2014, me and my friend decided to cycle in the ancient city as it will give us access to a small lanes and hidden areas. As it was in February, it was not so hot . However, Bagan is always a bit more hotter than other parts of Burma. We hired battery bike and cycled them to various temples. We cycled across the river banks, near pagodas and remnants of unknown buildings, etc. We felt like we were back in the past, exactly 2500 years ago, lost in all old buildings.
But we didn’t notice the battery bike need to be charged. So in the end, the battery ran out and we were stranded in Middle of Nowhere in Bagan. It was quite far from the town and very deserted. As it was getting dark, I recalled stories my friends told me. There are still lots of spirts around Bagan and they decided to come out at night to have a stroll around pagodas. Some are pretty ladies wearing ancient Attire and they like to hire the horse wheel cart. The drivers of these horse wheel cart are used to the spirits and usually allow them to get on the carriage. Upon getting off, the ladies would offer them gold coins in return of gratitude. Some drivers were freaked out and ran away as soon as they see that sort of girls on the road.
Back to our story, while we were alone on the highway at twilight, I was more concerned about spirits and ghosts than the robbery. As usual, I am full of imagination and I would not know how to react if the spirits came out and talked to us . So we tried to get a lift from passing vehicles. Unfortunately, the road was rarely used by travelers and for a long time, we couldn’t see anyone. Then some private cars passed by us without offering us any lift. Finally, a motor bike stopped for us and offered one of us a lift to go back to town. It means one of us would be left behind with two bikes without battery. None of us wanted to be left alone. So we declined the offer. Then the biker said “ it is getting dark. I am worried for your safety. I will wait until we get another bike. However, who will take care of the bikes? If the bikes are unattended , someone will steal them. You should call to owner”.
So we desperately tried to contact the owner of the bikes. We were worried we would miss the bus as it was only one hour away from the departure time. We were supposed to go back to Yangon on the same day. Finally, the owners of bikes came to rescue us. They took back the bikes so that we could safely go to the bus station with the gentle men who gave us the lift.
Next time, I would charge the bike every 4 hours. Don’t worry.
Note: These photos were taken in 2014 before the earthquake of 2016. So some buildings were damaged due to earthquake and you might not find the original pagodas anymore.
In my previous blog, I have mentioned about the location, how to go and where to stay in Gaw Yan Gyi island.
Now I am going to write about the most mysterious part about this blog, which are legends and stories passed from one generation to another about the island . Some people said they don’t believe it. Some people also told me about the facts which are their first hand experience about the island.
Gaw Yan Gyi island is situated 25 miles south of Chaung Tha and Nway Saung beach of Ayeyawaddy division, Pathein Township in Myanmar. The original island is only 3 miles long and 1.5 miles in width and 300 feet high. An author from another blog described it as a peninsula for now, but it was an island surrounded totally by water a half century ago. The Eastern part of the island used to have forests before and now it is left with only some trees due to excessive logging.
The Western part of islands has a lot of cliffs , rocks and caves dwelling lots of bats and pythons.
I asked two elderly men who lived near the island for 60 years. Both of them said that there used to be jackals, wild cats, deer, monkeys and cobras. Both of them said there used to be a large tiger who roam the island once a month. People called him “ the island roaming tiger”. It was very gigantic and mysterious because it only came at the time of full moon. One day, a hunter shot the deer and saw very bright eyes nearby. He randomly hit the eyes and heard the roar. Then a few weeks after that, they found out the skeleton of the tiger in the cave. Usually, Burmese don’t kill the tigers as tigers are regarded connected to Nat ( supernatural well being ).
Around 45 years ago, the island was isolated and not connected to the mainland. ( Note: all the hotels are situated in the mainland called Kway Chaing and not on the island ) Between the island and the mainland, there was a deep and torrential strait which allowed international cruises and vessels to pass through. Then one day, a person who looked like a lunatic arrived the island and predicted that one day, the island would become connected to the mainland so that people from all over the world would come and visit it. His name is Mann Shwe La Yaung and later people regarded him as a prophet . His prediction came true only after 5-6 years. The strait has been replaced by a new formed beach which is 500 meters long.
Now there is a village on that beach and the soil is very fertile. The farmers grow crops and paddy field and they think the fruits and rice from that area is more delicious than crops from other areas. Long before Shwe La Yaung came, the hunter who transformed into a hermit decided to build a pagoda on the island. It was a difficult time for any construction on the island as people needed to use boat to go there. However, the hermit managed to build the pagoda with only white color stones. He chose white color because white symbolize purity. He also didn’t accept donation from people who earn illegal money. The villagers carried the pebbles and stones in their sarong and built the pagoda slowly. At first, the monks did not like the hermit as he used to be a hunter. So the monks boycotted the pagoda and only hermit had to do opening ceremony himself. The pagoda is 18 feet tall and later someone came and built the statue of a dragon. People also believe the hermit created the pagoda with the help of dragon queen.
The pagoda has 420 steps and you can see the panorama view of the island from pagoda.
The stories are like that. The first residence of the island was a couple who started banana plantation on the island. They noticed poisonous snakes on the island. The wife stepped on one of the snakes and the husband also touched a snake with his hand by accident. But the snakes didn’t bite them. I have read this information near the pagoda. The Narrative described the snakes as cobras. But when I saw them and took photos and matched from photos of internet, it turned out they are yellow lipped krait which is 20 times more poisonous than other snakes. Once they bite, people can die instantly. But I didn’t hear any mortality related to snake bites in that island. People regard the snakes as holy and don’t dare to kill or harm them. Residents as well as visitors have strange dreams in which the holy person wearing white color dress came and cured their illnesses such as chronic back pain and knee pain. The villagers also noticed if they can’t control the temper of their domestic animals such as oxen and roosters which fight with others, they send those wild animals to the islands and the animals became tame and more approachable. More than that, a long time ago, farmers mixed rice with poison and tried to feed crows as the crows came and destroyed the crops, but it was not successful as the crows were unharmed after ingesting the poisonous rice. Similarly, the fishermen injected strong insecticide inside the fish and fed the jackals as the jackals stole the dried fishes. However, the jackals could withstand the poisons. Since then, the farmers and fishermen have not poisoned any animals and instead pray that their crops and fish cannot be stolen by the animals. I didn’t see any jackals nor crows on the island when I arrived there because the place is more like a tourist site more than the fishing place now.
I went to Gaw Yan Gyi with a friend and we didn’t know whether we would like the island or not in the beginning. But in the end, we fell in love with the place. The journey was tiring as the roads are not developed yet. I felt sick on my way back.
The thing I vividly remember is once we arrived near Nga Yoke Kaung before entering into the mountain ranges, the driver stopped the car and all the crew got off the bus. I thought they were going for toilet, but they were praying at the big tree, lighting candles and scented sticks. It was around 1 am. I think this is how bus drivers usually do so that the bus will be safe in traditional way.
After we arrived at Nga Yoke Kaung Town around 5 am, we sat at the café at the bus stand and had a cup of coffee. We had to wait as the boats are not available till 6 am.
Then we went to the jetty at 6 am. The bike men sent us to Nant Thar Pu jetty and it was a total mistake. It’s because after we crossed the river, we had to hire the motor bike to go to our hotel. I realized the other side jetty was too far from our hotel. The journey was spine chilling as the roads are very narrow and sometimes need to slide down the hills very often. I often thought I was going to break my arms or legs if I fall from the bicycle. But the bikers managed very well. The ride was almost 30 minutes and they charged us only 4000 kyats per person. I can say that it is a fair price, but it would be much easier if we chose different jetty which has boats for kway Chaing. Then the motor bike takes only 5 minutes to go to hotel from the jetty.
After we crossed the river, we had an uneventful motor bike ride. I could not concentrate much on scenery as I was struggling not to fall off from motor bike. However I would recommend you to ride motor bike at the beach front. It was phenomenal. I just loveeeeeed that.
We stayed at the Adventure resort on the first night. The staff are friendly and they even cooked us very delicious prawns and crabs.
The bungalow is clean and spacious enough for two people. No air con in all hotels as there is no electricity supply in the village.
The problem of Adventure resort is the bungalows face towards the coconut trees and not towards the sea. As it is summer, at night, we felt very hot. We couldn’t also open the windows as we are not supplied with mosquito nets. We cannot use the fan as they give us electricity from 6 pm to 12 midnight only. So I sat outside in the armchair and cooled myself. I even thought of sleeping outside, but the tile were to cold to lie without any mattress . I walked to the beach and lay down on the sand. The wetness of the sand made me feel so much better. I looked at the starry sky. I usually kiss the sand and talk to the rocks as if I was a lunatic. But unfortunately, my friend was near by standing and watching the every inch of increment in tide. She kept on saying “ I will see the water and once the water arrives this line, you need to get up. “. I think she was overly concerned as she rarely go to beach. Sometimes, I just need to be worry free.
The next day we hired the boat and went to “ Late Chaing”, it was named for the stone which looks like a tortoise.
The peculiar thing about Late Chaing is the beach is like two steps and forming like miniature waterfall.
When the tide came up, it brought lots of fish and they can be trapped under the rocks once the water level went down. We found a dead fish trapped under the stone.
The area is quite rocky and not a good place to swim, but it’s relaxing to watch the tides and mini aquarium inside the rocks where there are lots of trapped fish.
People showed me the rock where they regard it as the place belonged to supernatural well being. They believe that area has lots of bowls, plates and pots like 100 years ago. These bowls and plates can be borrowed from the place as long as you return them. Some people said they heard the noises came out from the rock around 2004. They said it was not the sound of waves and different sounds of cutlery and bowls rubbing against each other.
The interesting part is finding snakes. I know it sounds dangerous to try to find snakes. But I really wanted to see them, not to disturb them, but simply curious how they looked like. The next day, we went there again from the pagoda. It took 45 minutes to walk along coastal line. You need to climb 100 steps of the stairs towards pagoda and then got off the stairs towards the trekking.
We started our trekking at 3.30 pm so it was still quite hot and the leaves were dry. I was supposed to go with our guides who were also our taxi drivers. These two gentle men suggested accompanying us as the trekking may be tough for us who are apparently couch potatoes. I really enjoyed the walk and saw some interesting trees which intertwined with each other.
Although we planned to go on our own, two boys who were the grand children of pagoda’s guard offered to go with us. They are very familiar with the place and said they like trekking. SO I allowed two of them, the elder one is around 8 years old and younger one is 5 years old. Elder one is Thu and his younger brother is Zwe. They are adorable, Thu is a chatter box and occasionally gives command to his younger brother. Out of the blue, one black dog also followed us and it became a crowd with four adults, two kids and a dog. What a marvelous team! I asked the kids whether the dog is theirs, but the kids said “ Mal Lone” aka Blackie is a dog who will accompany anyone going that trek. The boys know the dog very well although he is a stray. Blackie is apparently a very good guide dog as he usually runs in front of us. When we were left behind too far, he seemed concerned and waited for us patiently. He made sure we use smooth lane. He really is a happy dog because once we reached the Lake Chaing at the area of Bay, Blcakie rolled on the ground , wiggling his tail. He was apparently on cloud nine.
When we reached “ Lake Chaing” , Blackie left us alone. He didn’t want to follow us to the area of snakes, I guess. We crossed the sea water and climbed on the big rock to find the snakes. It was hot and I guess snakes do not usually come out during day time. So We squatted down and searched the snakes under the rock and stones. Thu told me that he found a very big snake with the size of a tree when he was fishing. He had to leave his fishing rod and run. Then our guide called us to show us the snake. The snake was sliding under the stone leisurely. When we tried to take photo, it did not run away and just kept on moving towards us., I think that phenomenon is a bit strange because snakes will usually run away when people approach them. But that snake, as if it was a celebrity, did not bother flashes form our camera. I left it alone and stood at the edge of the rock , looking at the scenery. Then another guide called us to show many snakes knotted into each other. I gasped and said “ may be they are mating”. Then my little guide “ Thu” said “ no aunty, you can’t say that. She is a mother and she is looking after her children”. I had to try to hide my giggles.
Amazingly, 5 year old boy Zwe was quite tough and could climb and hop on rocks and puddles efficiently. Sometimes, I was concerned he might fall. When I praised Zwe, Thu said “ Do you know why he is tough? It’s all because of my training. I trained him which fruit is bad and which is good, which way he should go and which way he shouldn’t. I also forced him to walk as much as he can”. Thu behaved as if he was the General ordering his little brother along the way. Then we saw people throwing pebbles at the rock and picking up sea snails or clams ( I have no idea how you call that ) . I asked them what they were doing. Thu said people were opening the clams and eating the flesh inside. Some were picking up clams to sell back. I asked them “ is it tasty ?” and both kids started to nag me to try one. One of the guys overheard our conversation and offered me flesh to eat raw. I was not sure whether I should because I am asthmatic and didn’t want to have drama of bronchospasm in the middle of nowhere. But I was also tempted as they said it was such a delicacy. Finally, I ate one and it was salty and tasty , not as fishy as I thought. Suddenly, I remembered the notice displayed at the pagoda not to kill any living thing near the pagoda. I felt guilty , but comforted by Thu that the clams would not suffer any kind of pain as it was the lowest form of the planet. What an insight from an 8 year old boy?
Then we had to go back and it was a pleasant walk because the sun was beginning to set. We could view the beautiful sunset with tides and a stretch of cliffs. At one point, I saw the rock at the bay which exactly looked like a broken bridge. It made me wonder whether the island was an emerged ancient town which was built thousands of years ago.
My thoughts are like that. May be the island was a bustling town with lots of archaeological value thousands of years ago. Then it was covered with water a long time until it emerged again. I had to tell this because I found lots of rocks are quite strange. Some of them looked like a chair and others looked like doors. Some rocks looked like elephant statues. I have never seen that kind of rocks even though I have been to lots of beaches all over the world.
I felt I was connected to the place as if I was there in my last life. I just knew I was there. Well, before the readers think I am out of my mind, I am going to show you the photos of the beach.
Here are the photos of the places I have taken everywhere in Kway Chaing. The area near the red bungalow is called “ Palin Chaing” and the red bungalows are owned by “ the Log”, the most expensive motel in Kway Chaing. I saw a school of fish were trapped in the rock , restless and swimming to and fro. I wish the tide would come at night and send them back to sea otherwise, they might die.
The next day, we climbed up the hill near our inn and saw lots of small birds. The birds are called “ Ziwazoe “ in Burmese and the birds make their nest of vomit’s. A lot of people want to drink that for good health. Poor little birdies.
I thought I felt tired after the hike and slept under the shade of the stone. It was a nice sunny day. I felt good about everything and dozed off.
Then I sat in shallow water , but I was unable to sit quietly as the waves hit me violently and dragged me back towards the shore. Finally I went towards deeper water and sat peacefully.
Then, my friend started to nag to get back to shallow water as both of us couldn’t swim. So I thought this is the time to preach her. I told her the stories of people died inside their own house while sleeping as the plane crushed into their houses. And I also told her another story of two girls hit by a car in the shopping mall as a teenager tried to drive the new car which was displayed for sale . The moral is “ People might die any time how cautious you are. But we only live once”. With that, she became quiet and let me do whatever I want.
I came back to my inn, showered and indulged myself on the hammock, reading a book called “ Wild”. When my eyes get tired, I look at the coconut fringed sea shore. What a life ! I just loved every minute of it.
Overall, I would rate the island as one of the best islands so far. People now call it as “ Burma’s Maldives”. Well, I would not say that because the sand quality is still not as good as one from Maldives. But you have to go there to see the rocks and to hear the legends of Gaw Yan Gyi especially if you can endure horrible roads and lack of electricity.
Note: I know you come to Burma to enjoy and you might need to save money for other trips. However, please be kind to locals and at least offer a few tips to those who are honest and hardworking. Last, please don’t leave behind the rubbish. I gave credit to Haymar Aung for her amazing photographs. You can search her facebook to see her photographs about Burma.
Gaw Yan Gyi island is situated in Irrawaday division of Burma, Nga Pu Taw Township. I was in doubt when people said how mysterious the island is, but I found out it is really a fairy island and people should go there before the tourists destroy the genuine nature. As this post is going to be long, I am going to divide the blog into two parts. The first one is how to go there and where to stay.
HOW TO GO THERE
You might think you are very good in driving and you might want to drive there. Please don’t do this unless you have four wheel drive and you can drive like “ Fast and Furious”. The road till Pathein is quite ok, but after you pass Pathien, you will suffer a lot of road sickness as the roads are narrow lanes close to divine. The scenery may be nice but after watching outside for a while, your head will be spinning as the bus drives up and down the mountains. Luckily, there are two buses running directly to Gaw Yan Gyi and the bus is quite cheap. They charge only 10,000 kyats per person ( You might need to pay more if you are a foreigner ) for one way. The journey takes 9 hours. The roads are not developed yet and some area are still under construction. First , you have to arrive Nga yoke Kaung sub township where you need to take a boat to go to the island.
Here, I will give the phone number of the buses
Name of Bus : Kan Htoo Aung
Name of Bus station : Dagon Ayya in Yangon ( Hlaing Tharyar Township ), Other bus stops don’t have direct bus to Nga Yoke Kaung.
Phone : +95-9 4211 559 11, +95-9 4211 55922 ( From Yangon to Nga Yoke Kaung) departure time: 8.30 pm
Phone : +95-94900 2539 ( From Nga Yoke Kaung to Yangon ) Departure time : 6.30 pm
Name of Bus : Myat Mi Khin
Name of Bus station ; Dagon Ayya ( yangon, Hlaing Tharyar Township )
Phone : 09-444779309, 09-768612572 ( From Yangon TO Nga Yoke Kaung )
Phone : 09-444779314, 09-768612577 ( From Nga yoke Kaung to Yangon )
You will arrive very early morning at Nga Yoke Kaung town around 5 am. The sampans or boats will not be available till 6 am. But you can take coffee and snack at the café at the bus stand. Some people will ask you to go with mortor bike which can cost you around 7000 kyats. Please don’t do that. The road will be very bumpy and long. We were also misled by the motor biker because they sent us to the wrong jetty. By the way, the motor bike should charge you only 500 kyats per person to go to the jetty. There are two jetties called Nant Thar Pu jetty and Kway Chaing jetty. Ask your hotel which jetty is nearer to your hotel. The boat will take around 20 minutes to arrive Kway Chaing where you can have lots of hotels. The boat fare is only 200 kyats per person.
Where to stay
There are various places to stay . But I will start with the most expensive one.
1) The Log hotel
Price : 90,000 kyats per night for two people. If you need extra bed, they charge you 45,000 kyats for one extra bed. Yes, it’s crazy. The hotel is quite isolated and good for people who needs privacy such as Honey Moon goers. But there is no shady trees around the hotel and I guess it is hot in the afternoon. Remember, there is no Aircon in any hotel as there is no electricity on the island. They use engine to have electricity and can get it during night only. It is situated at Pa-lin-Chaing.
Unfortunately, I can’t find the contact of the hotel. If you know it, please comment below.
2) G7 Plage
Price : 50,000 kyats per night for two people, for extra bed 25,000 kyats per person.
For foreigner : 45 US D per night.
Review : The nicest location as the beach is the most beautiful and the best location for wind surfing. You can cycle, ride motor bike or jog just in front of the beach. The bungalows are modern and clean. They have western toilets and rain showers.
3) Adventure resort
Price : 50000 kyats per night for two people and extra bed is 15000 kyats. For the hotel which is a bit far from sea, 40,000 kyats per night . If you want to live on the upstairs, they charge 10,000 kyats extra.
Review: clean, comfortable. The food cooked by hotel chef is nice. Their prawn and crab curries are super delicious. The hotel does not charge extra for foreigner . The staff are very friendly and will do everything to make you feel comfortable.
Disadvantage : It is very hot as the wind does not blow across the hotel. There is fishy smell at the front beach as the fishermen dry the fishes there. There is a stretch of blue sea , but not rock formation near by. They give electricity only from 6 pm to 12 midnight while other hotels give from 6 pm to 6 am.
You can look for the contact from facebook page called Adventure Paradise Hotel, Gaw Yan Gyi. It’s always easier to message from Fb messenger.
Contact number : +95- 9444489991, +95-9444489992
4) Thirithuta Hotel
Price : 35000 kyats for two people. Extra bed 15000 kyats per person.
They also have tents and cheaper accomodation . For example, you pay only 8000 kyats for one person if you don’t mind to use common toilet and bathroom.
I stayed there for two nights in beach front bungalow and I really recommend it. The place is very near to pagoda and Lake Chaing . They have hammock in front of the beach. They also have beautiful scenery near by and to swim. There is no fishy smell. It is not too hot like Adventure resort. People are friendly
Disadvantage : The food is not so good . I recommend to eat outside or bring your own food there. They also display motor bike fare for various places so that motor bike people cannot cheat you.
5) Win Beach Hotel
It is recommended in one of the website. One bungalow charges only 4,000 kyats for four people. There are two kingsize bed and the bathroom and toilet attached to it. They cook for you like other hotel with fair prices according to review.
Phone : +95-9 49734702, +95-9 250118017
6) Family House resort
Price : 40000 kyats per two persons
Review: clean, good accommodation, understaffed, looks like the staff does not know much
Disadvantage : No Western toilet
I saw tents there also. The location otherwise is very nice.
There are lots of other hotels which I do not mention as I don’t have photos. Please find it in their facebook page for contact.
From Thirithuta to the pagoda, it is only 1000 kyats per person. But if you hire by only two person, they charge you 4000 kyats per person.
They can charge up to 10,000 kyats for the whole day. Otherwise, you can only give 500- 1000 kyats for near by places. Some hotels regulate the taxi fares and you should ask advice from your hotel.
There is no available taxis there and motor bike are only available transport. Although, the road is bumpy and spine chilling at certain areas, they are very skillful drivers.
Phone and internet availability
You can only use MPT phone line there. So please buy one sim card before you go there.
Things to bring
1) Sun screen
2) Sun glasses
4) Mosquito repellent ( not much mosquitoes, but certain hotels for example Adventure and G7 plage do not offer mosquitoes nets . But Thirithuta hotels give mosquitoes nets )
For Foreigners, you need permission from Pathein if I am not mistaken. Please contact the travel agent. Otherwise, I don’t think police will chase you just by visiting there as I saw some foreigners as well.
Note: I took some photos from Hay Mar facebook. Some photos are taken by me.
Please continue reading about myth and legends about island in my blog Gaw Yan Gyi island part II. Thank you
In February 2017, I could tick off one of my bucket lists, travelling to virgin islands of Burma, my mother land.
Mergui archipelago is located in the most Southern part of Burma bordered by Thailand.
The archipelago officially has more than 800 recorded islands. But according to my guide, there are 2000 islands and out of them, only 800 islands are officially recorded, and out of 800, only 200 islands are accessible to the outsiders.
There are not only islands but also lots of mangroove swamps enriched with diversity of plants and animals. ( the government does not allow foreigners to sleep on the islands. But you can arrange day trip tours. please check before you go)
There is still no proper rule regarding land ownership and the fishermen build the cottages on the island and can stay there without paying anything to government. The government approves most of the application to build settlement as the region needs to be developed.
To arrive Mergui islands, I had a flight to the town called Myeik with Myanmar National Airline ( unfortunately, it’s as expensive as the flight to BKK ). Myeik is a beautiful town, it’s clean and roads are spacious. There is not much traffic jams and lots of nice food. And if you are very much into birds, there is a lake where you can watch varieties of birds.
And to see the panorama view of Myeik, you can go to Thein Daw Gyi pagoda to watch the sunset and the amazing view of the Adaman sea.
If you wana try famous cuisine in Myeik, I would recommend “ Kyan Taw” restaurant and “ U Maung Win” Restaurant , phone 098763270. At U Maung Win restaurant, please try pork brain mixed with eggs, It’s yum. And you can order “ Kat Kyay kite” ( fried white color noodles ). For accommodation, I would recommend you “ Golden sky Hotel” ( telephone 059-41991),
it’s just 5 to 10 minutes drive from airport, very clean and has a pool. The price is 28000 kyats for Myanmar citizens and 40000 kyats for foreigners per head , if two people, they charge extra 10000 kyats. You can also ask them to arrange airport pick up for you. It is very easy to get motor bike for your transport if you are alone. They are not costly and bikers are very skilful. I think it’s more fun to ride on bike in open air than in the car. Afterall, the town is not big and you can go everywhere with bike .
From Myeik, you need to arrange boats to go to the island. It takes one and half hour to go to the nearest island. Mergui travel and tour has very nice boat and its more speedy than other boats.
We went there with Blue Ocean Star Resort and Travel. The project developer is Kyaw Moe. His cell phones are 09 451022389, 09420709547. Email is firstname.lastname@example.org.
Blue Ocean company is developing Harris island into a comfortable place to stay. They built a cottage where some staff live. They cook, clean the place, do some buildings, and organize the boats. The staff are multi purpose and one of them even massaged for us at night. They also have clean toilets and enclosed bath rooms. They developed a tube well for fresh water. Before blue ocean arrived that island, an old lady was staying alone selling fresh water to fishermen. Harris island is 1300 feet long and the water is crystal clear.
They built a bridge where you can look into deep water from the bridge.
You can also climb the hill where you can see the bird eye view of island.
You can also jungle trek and get lost in the jungles where there are rare flowers exist.
There is a very famous traditional drink . They keep the artichoke , squeeze their flash and oil , then mix with beer and drink it.
A lot of people like it. But we didn’t try because the locals told us it’s kinda fishy. In contrary to what people said, I didn’t see much fish there. It’s mainly because there are a lot of illegal fishing boats near by. ( I assume illegal and the foreign companies come and buy fish from these boats) I saw a few schools of fish in deep water. Near the bridge, the sea has lots of artichokes. They can be painful if you accidentally step on them.And if you want to go and see corals, you have to take risk of getting injured by spikes of shells stuck to the stones.
As most of us are not good swimmers, we end up getting injuried walking in the sea at the back of Harris island. I was bleeding profusely and had to get on the boat again.
Usually, it became hot after 9 am unless you want to sit under the shade.
The sand is very soft and velvety. The water is blue. It’s amazing. I went up the hill and although, I could climb uneventfully , on the way back, it’s quite a difficult descend.
In the end, I decided to sit down and slide as I was afraid I would slip and fall.
It’s a breezy day. So I decided to dip my feet inside the salty water and feel the tides touch my feet. Suddenly, the crabs ( very beautiful deep green color ) came under the stones and walked around me. They were fascinating. I always have a thing for crabs. If you want to watch them, you have to be very still. Once they can sense vibration, they run away from you. I savored my solitude with nature and thanked God for guiding me to come to that beautiful island.
At night, we were given two options to sleep, either we could sleep on the benches made of bamboo or sleep in the tents. As we are concerned about mosquitoes ( mind you, it is the malaria endemic area ), we decided to sleep in the tents.
So the staff prepared tents just in front of the sea. It was amazing. The highlight of the trip is we lie on the benches before going inside the tent and talked about a lot of stuff.
There was a starry sky, it was beautiful. The beach was well lit as a lot of fishing boats anchored near the island and we were surrounded by boats with lights. Luckily, there was no rain. The weather was perfect. I felt like I found out new friends during the trip because I could talk to my travel partners for a long time at night. So travelling is not all about finding new places, it’s also about finding new people who might become your long lasting friends in the end.
Our tour guide called Aung San Lwin is a cheerful guy, he has a very good communication skill. His cell phone is 09782667126, obviously a happy-go-lucky person. He was more excited than us when he saw a school of Nimo fish. He did not accept the tips and finally, I found out he is not a staff and one of share holders for the business. He is very helpful , but not a typical guide who will watch over you. He would rather enjoy himself. So you need to watch out danger for yourself if you are with him.
He brought us to fish farm ( on the way before we arrive islands ) to get fresh fish and cook for us at night.
The tour guide Aung San Lwin arranged all our meals with fresh sea food and the staff can cook very well. Surprisingly, the cost of all sea food meals’are only one tenth of ordinary price there.
We also went to the Main –ma- hla island meaning Beautiful lady island. There is a shrine and a small waterfall. I saw the fishermen are taking water out of waterfall. The water is very cold and refreshing.
The next day, we went to the stone island where you see lots of beautiful stones as if angles lay the stones there perfectly. The stones has smooth surface and rounded in shape. Some are transformation of shells mixed with lime , white in color. You can see lots of beautiful fish there although its difficult to walk on stones.
Then we headed to the famous Moken village.
It is quite famous for its native people called Moken or sea gypies. They are trained to be at sea since very young age. Their vision is much sharper than other people under water. They can swim tirelessly with grace. Some claim they can even sleep under water. They can dive up to 30 minutes without coming up. Previously, they are the only resources to supply famous Burmese pearls to the world as they can dive and know locations of clams more than other people. Still, they are struggling even to have a proper school and now the church is being used temporarily as the primary school.
When we arrived there, all kids came out from church and looked at us. They were singing in the church in Moken language. We distributed jellies and sweets and they gladly accepted the snacks. In contrary to what I saw in books, most kids have fair skin . I think may be the skin might change once they go out to sea more often. I am glad they are still learning their own language.
At times, one of my friends raised up question regarding loss of culture. We know Moken people know the sea like the back of their hands. But my friend wondered whether the tradition and culture is disappearing among young people. Then , the head of Moken village replied him that although the technology seeps inside the village, the kids still learn about the sea from their experience. At the time of Tsunami, the kids who were playing at sea noticed the change of color in the sea, they quickly ran back to the village and alerted the adults. Soon after that, the whole village shifted to the hilly area and escaped from the tides which devoured the whole village.
After that, we went to the two faced island. The island is 1800 feet long and very beautiful. By chance, we ran into a crowd who came to island with the ship. They were celebrating a party and even offered us some free food. And some tour guide caught crabs and did barbeque on the island. We were a bit hungry and glad to be able to buy some chicken and salad on the island fortunately. It was not all time event, and by luck, the snack were sold by visitors as well. The island is 1800 feet long and nobody staying on it except hornbills which I saw by chance. It was a big hornbill and flew just above my head while I was sitting on the rock.
We were supposed to go to a few more islands. But our boat was not functioning well because of polluted oil purchased from fishermen. When we arrived “ Don waterfall”, I decided not to go down as I know I am not a well balanced person to walk on the slippery stones. But the sight of waterfall is beautiful.
As our boat is not functioning, we came back with another boat and it was faster on our way back.
We came back with lots of memories and a few cuts here and there on our bodies. I am telling to my friends that I need to go back to the island with my guitar and a stack of books. This is a place which will be forever in my ” must go back ” list.
I am not particularly interested in cave as I am asthmatic and I usually get eerie feelings and sense of suffocation whenever I visit inside the cave. However, my curiosity always drives me to do some venture inside the cave and I went twice to Myin Ma Hti mountain to observe the cave. Another reason I went there is the view on the way to the cave is awesome and there are lots of seasonal flowers especially sunflowers and sesame flowers ( I went there before harvest time in December , so the scenery was yellow , white , green and red , the color of soil in Shan State is red ). But if you go there other time, you will not see sunflowers.
According to the record done by a monk at the Myin Ma hti village in the year 1906, the pagodas inside the cave were first founded by King Siri Dama Thaw Ka around 2300 years ago. King Siri Dama Thawka was well known as a king who tried to spread Buddhism all over the country. He built 84000 lakes, 84000 wells and 84000 pagodas, The cave is 1028 feet long and on the walls , there were side tunnels which are linked to outside. Previously, the cave was covered with the water and it was used to be called water flowing cave. However, it was assumed that the water disappeared through some opening inside the cave and nowadays, it is dry. There are still 28 statues which was assumed to be created 2300 years ago.
After King Siri Dama Thawka , King Anawrahta took over the pagoda and did some renovation , then it was taken over by King Along sithu. According to the record, the cave has existed for thousands of years before Buddhism flourished there.
Myin Ma Hti mountain is four miles from Kalaw Town. Kalaw is 4315 feet above sea level and the summit of mountain is 1075 feet from the base.
There is a legend that four powerful and extraordinarily strong horses came out from the divine and ate the paddy field and vegetable from the village farms. The villagers could not shoo the horses away and asked help from the King Anawrahtar. The king sent his four heroes named Kyan Sit Thar, Nga Htwe Ru, Nga Lone Lat Phal and Nyaung Oo Phee. The heroes managed to tame wild horses and brought them to the palace. On the way back, Hero Kyan Sit Thar galloped on the powerful horse and jumped over the mountain. The horse could jump over it and the mountain was named Myin Ma Hti ( The mountain which the horse didn’t touch )
You could reach the cave by turning to the right after you passed the toll if you come from Kalaw. You need to drive a few miles and the cave was on the way to Pin Long .It is situated in between Kalaw and Aung Ban. It is four miles away from Kalaw and two miles from Aung Ban. The temperature inside the cave is quite low and the water drops pour out from the cave. There is a place where you can make paste from the tree bark and wear it on your face. Some old people believe it has therapeutic effect.
If you are a fan of cave, just take it as one of your destinations when you arrive Kalaw
It is so cold right now, for a woman who has lived in hot places for more than 4 decades, I still cannot cope with temperature less than 15 C. Right now, the temperature is only 9 C in Taunggyi, Southern part of Shan State. The coldest hours are from 10 pm to 6 am. I am shivering while I am typing this. However, this time is the best time to travel in Myanmar, no rain and the roads are not wet and flooded. You can see lots of flowers in Shan State. They are all wild and seasonal flowers.
Today, I went to the place where I really wanted to go for a long time. The place is called “ Ywar Ngan” , in Burmese , it means “ salty village”, I have no idea why it was named like that. Lately, the place has been having attention from all over the world because of its beautiful waterfalls, caves and the blue lake lagoon ( Yay-pyar Lake)
There are so many legends about that village and it will be a good story for the curious travelers who also can trace the history. A lot of villagers are afraid to venture inside the forests and the caves for the fear of spirits and usually, people even local do not know much about the history. The local are superstitious and even tried to stop the tourists from venturing into unknown places. One time, a tourist tried to go inside a cave in Ywar Ngan village but he had to come out finally because the cave did not end after a half day and he became worried of safety.
I will tell you how I go there from Taunggyi, the capital of Shan State. Taunggyi is in Southern part of Shan State. At first, we went to He’ Ho ( a place where there is an airport ), then Aung Ban and from there, you have to turn to right . It is the same way you go to Pin Daya. But once you reach the junction called Kyone, you need to turn left ( or go straight) , instead of turning to the right .
If you turn to the right, you will reach Pin daya. But don’t go that way because the road to Ywar Ngan from that way is very rough and only bicycle can manage well to go. May be the road will change in a few years as the villagers are repairing the road. For us, we had to turn back as we don’t want to damage our car by bumpy roads with full of rocks.
We are lucky because we came across lots of beautiful scenery on the way, the view is full of yellow, because it is the time for sunflowers and sesame flowers to blossom. To add that, there are also wild flowers which are all yellow. We can see yellow, light green , red ( the color of soil is red) , dark green and white. I was so fascinated by the view and also thankful to my friend for driving there for me.
Once you reach Kyone, you need to drive another 34 miles to reach Ywar Ngan. On the way, We see the road lined by Euclid trees. The view is beautiful because all the sunflower fields and sesame fields are surrounded by mountains. The cold breeze tickled my hair when I started to walk along the road. I even went inside the field and observed the sunflowers and cabbages carefully, I could also see some pagodas built at the summit of the mountains.
On the way to Waterfall and blue lagoon ( Mya-tha-bait lake), you can drop in at Main-ma-ye Mountain.
The mountain is called “ brave woman mountain” , in Brurmese “ Main-ma-ye-taung” ( Taung means mountain )
I did not climb the mountain because I recently had ankle sprain and didn’t want to get another injury. But I am going to post photos of my friends who hiked it. If you are patient, you can get the nice view at the summit.
After the mountain, we went to the blue water lagoon ( Mya-tha-bait-yay-pyar-aing). I believe the water is blue because of some chemical in the soil. But contrary to science, a lot of villagers believe there must be some treasure such as emerald bowl buried beneath the lake by angles. The legend is that the angels kept the emerald bowl for the purpose of donating it to New Buddha. They also believe there are a lot of spirits guarding the lake and are extremely cautious not to offend them. For that reason, they protested the idea of a tourist who came from Europe with the purpose of diving inside the lake and measuring the depth of the lake . They believe once you disturb the spirits, the villagers have to bear the wrath of super natural beings. The lake was carefully fenced and you cannot throw anything inside the water including the bread for the fish.
The water is amazingly transparent and we could see fishes swimming peacefully around the branches of trees inside the lake.
It was fascinating and I lingered at the fence without noticing that foreigners were trying to capture photos and I was obliterating their view.
Finally we moved on and went to the Forest star water fall , in Burmese ( Taw-kyal-waterfall). The waterfall as well as blue lake have been looked after by the monastery nearby and they try to clean the lanes and make sure tourists are safe. They also offer public toilets for the tourists and travelers. I would like to advice to donate for a few dollars for the monastery if you can. There is a donation box near by. We also saw a few Shan children playing on the way. They are very cute and kept on calling me ” sister”, in Burmese ” Mama”. When I approached them to have a chat, I found out that they don’t speak Burmese . They only know the word ” sister”.
I wanted to go to the caves , but it will take a lot of time and you need to go with the motor bike in the early morning . So we returned back and think of going there again. There are more photos of scenery along the way.
Thank you for reading.
real live experience regarding travels, meeting strangers and daily life.