Category Archives: island

Isle of Man part IV ( Cregneash village )

Cregneash
Cregneash village

The Cregneash village lies near Port Erin which is south part of island called Isle of Man .

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The entire village was left as the way it was since 200 years ago just to attract tourists and to preserve the life style of villagers in peaceful nature. Cregneash has become an open-air folk museum. The surrounding fields are now once more in cultivation and visitors can again see the landscape of old time again. Cregneash is also a living village where people live and work.

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very pretty white houses of Cregneash with thatch roof

 

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Cregneash area surrounded by grazing fields and hills

Visitors can see traditional rural skills and crafts being practiced. They can learn new things and remember some old skills such as milking cows, reaping and ploughing using ox wheel carts  etc.

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the shed storing some equipment used by villagers

 

The Cregneish folk were just like a great fisher-family entirely left to themselves and a little disturbed by the outside waves of modern life with its rush and hectic pace. They were frugal, hardy and sea-toiling men, whose lives were divided between mackerel fishing and the harvesting of their little oat and potato crofts. ( Charles Reader-1901)

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When you walk inside the small village, you can instantly fee the ease and peaceful surroundings. You can browse inside the displayed houses and sheds which store tools for agricultural and construction. You can see the small cozy bedrooms with weaved fabric on the bed and little cots for babies etc.

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the bed room of typical Cregneash family
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the living room with fire inside
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like other parts of Europe, collection of Chinaware show wealth of family
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Living room of another Manx house

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It gave me the impression that the villagers are pious Christians as I can see displays of quotes about God in the rooms of houses.

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a small church for community.

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inside the church

Other interesting animals you can see are Manx Loaghtan Sheep which has multiple horns ( having from 2 to 6). This breed is native to the Isle of Man and is one of the rarest breeds of sheep in the British isles, nearly becoming extinct in 1950 ( only 43 surviving ) ,in 1956 The Manx National Trust acquired their first sheep and started a breeding program to save the breed.

loghtan sheep

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The name LOAGHTAN comes from two Manx words “ lugh” ( mouse) and “ dhoan” ( brown ) which described the light brown colour of the sheep.

They are very hardy mountain breed, well able to withstand harsh winters and they regularly produce twin lambs. They are an official rare breed but as they become more popular, their numbers are rising, so providing an assured future for this unique animal. Now, there are still fewer than 1,500 registered breeding females in the United Kingdom.

Another distinguished animals you can see in Isle of Man especially Cregneash village is the Manx cat which are entirely tailless or only have a small stub of a tail. The animal originates from Isle of Man , with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail. They were known in the island since early 19th century. There are lots of legends explaining why Manx cat are tailless and some believe Manx cats are hybrid between cats and rabbits referring to the cabbit” folktale.

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One of the reason Cregneash culture is maintained and  preserved is because of well known Manx poet called Ned Beg Hom Ray ( Edward Faragher ) who grew up in Cregneash and devoted whole life to Manx language and poetry. His family lived in Cregneash for many years, in particular in the tiny cottage which is now displayed as the museum.

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He became famous outside Cregneash because of his talent for writing poetry and hymns in Manx, his translations of Aesop’s Fables into Manx and his numerous contributions to Charles Reader’s Manx folklore collections.

Faragher family were a family of fishermen for generations untold. There was little English taught and known in Cregneash, his mother being the only person who could converse with strangers. His father was a fair scholar, and wrote all the letters to the Cregneash people, and that was a great thing then. The family being large-there were twelve children-he had to go to sea very young and joined his father’s boat, fishing with him for seven years . ( Charles Reader-1901)

For a short time, he went to Liverpool to become a safe-maker, working amongst Welshmen, who were worse English speakers than himself, and he learnt but little English there. His longing, however , for the sea and his heather-clad hills was too over-powering , and he returned again to Cregneish, and fished for mackerel at Kinsale and on the West coast of Ireland for 25 spring seasons. He has been shipwrecked and narrowly saved and weathered great storms in his rough voyages. ( Charles Reader-1901)

They are dwelling in the high, rocky upland, amidst purple heather and gorse, and you can see the wild dashing and splashing breakers, and hear the roaring from the sea caves. The winter time is there rough and desolate, and the fishing is then resting, and they draw closer to their glimmering turf fires to tell weird stories and gruesome legends. It was here in this mountain loneliness, so rich in natural scenery, that he grew up, and there is no man in the island that loves his native soil more intensely , or is fonder of the contemplation of nature. ( Charles Reader-1901)

The people of Cregneash gathered a great deal at other people’s houses, and one of their favorite diversions was the telling of stories about fairies and ” bugganes”…. heard people declare that they had seen the fairies in the form of little men in red caps. Bugganes are monsters covered with coarse hair and have red scary eyes.

The ” buggane” stories were very frightening to the children, and some were told with the idea of keeping children out of mischief.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buggane

When I went to Cregneash in April, some actors were there to display the exact picture of the village 100 years ago and I could take some pictures of them.

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some actors wearing like in World war II

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Near Cregneash, you can also see the Manx artist house with big hand statue, in memory of Edward Ashton Cannell.

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If you have time, you can enjoy a cream tea at the Cregneash tea room in the village. Make sure you bring cash as they cannot accept  credit cards.

 

For me, Cregneash is a must when you visit Isle of Man.

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Isle of Man part III ( coastal sightseeing )

When I first moved to Isle of Man, a lot of people asked me ” where are you Hninn?”. When I said ” I am in Isle of Man”, everybody is perplexed. Well, it’s very difficult to explain because I cannot say it’s EU countries as Isle of Man has never been part of EU. It is difficult to say it’s in uk because Isle of Man is not regarded as part of United Kingdom. In short , it is a country which has crown dependency and currently Lord of Mann ( the monarch of Isle of Man ) is Queen Elizabeth. Isle of Man located in the Irish sea between British isles and Ireland.

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the photo by Eric Gaba, ( courtesy to Wikipedia )

 

It is the fifth richest country in the world ( according to GDP ) and islanders, Manx are very proud of their self sufficiency. The country has only around 80,000 populations . It is 56 km long and at its widest, 22 km wide. It has an area of around 572 square kilometres (221 sq mi).

The interesting part of Isle of Man is it’s coastal footpath. There is the arranged coastal walk 100 miles which can be divided into 12 sections.  You can have a walk either 4 days ( strenuous walk ) to 12 days easier walk.

https://www.visitisleofman.com/things-to-do/activities/walking-and-hiking/raad-ny-foillan-coastal-footpath

During the coastal footpath, one can see amazing views, can encounter wild life especially rabbits, seagulls, birds and can hike up hills. I have not done coastal footpath yet as I arrived in the winter time. But I have been either driven or drove along the coastal ride and it has always been my favorite thing to do. In this post, I am going to post plenty of photos I took during my ride. Today, we went to the marine ride , a short coastal ride where you can see sunset . At one area, a car crushed into the divine although the driver ( an experienced teenager ) survived miraculously.

The island has different towns at each direction and you can see various photos taken at various places of island here.

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near Peel castle
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Peel castle built by Vikings

I also advise you to go to the Parade cafe which is built more than a century ago. It is located on the way to Port Erin and has a view of the sea with good food especially delicious fresh fish cuisines.

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me at the rock near Parade cafe

Manx people are very proud of their heritage, but never feel reluctant to open their properties for the sake of tourists who might get interested in entering private property for the sake of viewing the sea. I was visiting Ramsey and I went straight into someone’s yard without knowing it belongs to a private owner. But it seemed like the owner purposely opens her door during day time so that curious tourists can get a glimpse of her backyard amazing view.

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this photo was taken from the private property on the coastal area of Ramsey
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Ramsey

Some photos were simply taken by me while I was having a train ride. So the photos are not focus, but I can’t help sharing them as they are quite beautiful.

 

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During electric train ride
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I took this photo from the train, tourists were taking photos, it is near Ramsey
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near Douglas, Onchan

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Although it is quite crowded , being the center of town, Douglas also has the coastal area called Promonade, it is the sea front coastal area where you can see rows of shops, hotels , restaurants and malls. It is the area where people walk, jog and simply sit for a cup of tea.

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taken from the residential area,  Promonade, Douglas
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Near Onchan
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Promonade, where you can have a stroll

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There is also an area called Marine drive which is a short scenic drive of coastal area in Douglas. This is an ideal place for romantic evening where you can watch sunset or sunrise.

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A car driven by an inexperienced teenager crushed into this divine and he miraculously survived.

 

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on the way to Marine drive
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a place where you can use binoculars ( two big white stands ) to see the island historical landmarks

As a person who lived 3 minutes drive from the beautiful South China sea in South East Asia , I can assure you that the sight of the sea and the sound of the waves always calm my nerves.  Now I live near Irish sea and although it is cold and unimaginable to swim in, I am still deeply fond of sea. And so are other people who are alike me.

Helen Keller said I could never stay long enough on the shore; the tang of the untainted, fresh and free sea air was like a cool, quieting thought. 

I have been an anxious person and I was born as a sick child, grew into an anxious teenager and entered into the career with lots of strife and stress. But whenever I walk near the sea, I can forget about material world with greedy people, I can be myself at that moment, drifting my mind completely into the vastness of the sea and can think how little I am and I realize my worries are not significant compared to my love for nature. For all those moments, I am truly thankful and it reminds me how blessed I have been.

Hninn

 

 

Isle of Man part II ( glens)

In isle of Man, there are many Glens you can walk along the pebbled streams or rivers. In winter, trees in Glens are baren but loaded with lots of ferns and moss. In summer, wild flowers like Daffodils blossom and you can see more colors.

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Today we came to Glen Maye which is situated in south of Peel. There used to be mining which was abolished after 1870.

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The footpath is quite wet and slippery. Glen Maye is surrounded by Rushen river and the waterfall is bigger than any part of island.

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I am amazed at how clear the water is. If it is not icy cold, I might jump in. My boyfriend said ” you cannot jump in national property and it is not allowed”. But I am sure I will do it one day in the summer.

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Here are photos of Glen Maye

 

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And I wana put a few photos of Dhoon Glen here as well between Laxey and Ramsey.

The place can give you serenity.

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There is also a glen called Groudel glen which was quite famous for it’s natural charm as well as for sea lions and polar bears which were imported from America . The railway was constructed and open to the public in 1896. It was stated that 18 stones of fish was required to feed sea lions per week. Only two of them survived until after the first world war.  Please see this link for further information.

http://www.isleofman.com/places-to-visit/countryside/glens/groudle-glen/

I went there before the closing of electric railway and it was quite remote and not many people were there.  I needed to catch the last train and didn’t have enough time to walk entire length of the glen. It was peaceful and romantic. I was alone that time and was amazed at the ferns and trees. The orange color autumn leaves were everywhere and the place really looked like a fairy place.

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near the entrance, Groudle Gen
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a LOVELY place to walk , Groudle Glen
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Groudle Glen

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I will update this post quite frequently as I still have to visit many more glens, most probably in the summer.

 

Love

 

Hninn

Gaw Yan Gyi island part II ( the myth of the island )

 

In my previous blog, I have mentioned about the location, how to go and where to stay in Gaw Yan Gyi island.

Now I am going to write about the most mysterious part about this blog, which are legends and stories passed from one generation to another about the island . Some people said they don’t believe it. Some people also told me about  the facts which are their first hand experience about the island.

Gaw Yan Gyi island is situated 25 miles south of Chaung Tha and Nway Saung beach of Ayeyawaddy division, Pathein Township in Myanmar. The original island is only 3 miles long and 1.5 miles in width and 300 feet high.  An author from another blog described it as a peninsula for now, but it was an island surrounded totally by water a half century ago.  The Eastern part of the island used to have forests before and now it is left with only some trees due to excessive  logging.

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Eastern part of island

 

The Western part of islands has a lot of cliffs , rocks and caves dwelling lots of bats and pythons.

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This place is so windy and nice to sit

 

I asked two elderly men who lived near the island for 60 years. Both of them said that there used to be jackals, wild cats, deer, monkeys and cobras. Both of them said there used to be a large tiger who roam the island once a month. People called him “ the island roaming tiger”. It was very gigantic and mysterious because it only came at the time of full moon. One day, a hunter shot the deer and saw very bright eyes nearby. He randomly hit the eyes and heard the roar. Then a few weeks after that, they found out the skeleton of the tiger in the cave. Usually, Burmese don’t kill the tigers as tigers are regarded connected to Nat ( supernatural well being ).

Around 45 years ago, the island was isolated and not connected to the mainland. ( Note: all the hotels are situated in the mainland called Kway Chaing and not on the island ) Between the island and the mainland, there was a deep and torrential strait which allowed international cruises and vessels to pass through. Then one day, a person who looked like a lunatic arrived the island and predicted that one day, the island would become connected to the mainland so that people from all over the world would come and visit it. His name is Mann Shwe La Yaung and later people regarded him as a prophet . His prediction came true only after 5-6 years. The strait has been replaced by a new formed beach which is 500 meters long.

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Newly formed beach which replaced the area of strait.

Now there is a village on that beach and the soil is very fertile. The farmers grow crops and paddy field and they think the fruits and rice from that area is more delicious than crops from other areas.  Long before Shwe La Yaung came, the hunter who transformed into a hermit decided to build a pagoda on the island. It was a difficult time for any construction on the island as people needed to use boat to go there. However, the hermit managed to build the pagoda with only white color stones. He chose white color because white symbolize purity. He also didn’t accept donation from people who earn illegal money.  The villagers carried the pebbles and stones in their sarong and built the pagoda slowly. At first, the monks did not like the hermit as he used to be a hunter. So the monks boycotted the pagoda and only hermit had to do opening ceremony himself. The pagoda is 18 feet tall and later someone came and built the statue of a dragon. People also believe the hermit created the pagoda with the help of dragon queen.

The pagoda has 420 steps and you can see the panorama view of the island from pagoda.

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Panorama view of island from top of the hill where the pagoda exists
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the beginning of the stairs . The pagoda is called Mya-Wa-Di pagoda

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the statue of the hermit who built the pagoda

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The view from the pagoda ( Eastern part of island )

 

The stories are like that. The first residence of the island was a couple who  started banana plantation on the island. They noticed poisonous snakes on the island. The wife stepped on one of the snakes and the husband also touched a snake with his hand  by accident.  But the snakes didn’t bite them. I have read this information near the pagoda. The Narrative described the snakes as cobras. But when I saw them and took photos and matched from photos of internet, it turned out they are yellow lipped krait which is 20 times more poisonous than other snakes. Once they bite, people can die instantly. But I didn’t hear any mortality related to snake bites in that island. People regard the snakes as holy and don’t dare to kill or harm them. Residents as well as visitors have strange dreams in which the holy person wearing white color dress came and cured their illnesses such as chronic back pain and knee pain. The villagers also noticed if they can’t control the temper of their domestic animals such as oxen and roosters which fight with others, they send those wild animals to the islands and the animals became tame and more approachable. More than that, a long time ago,  farmers mixed rice with poison and tried to feed crows as the crows came and  destroyed the crops, but it was not successful as the crows were unharmed after ingesting the poisonous rice. Similarly, the fishermen injected strong insecticide inside the fish and fed the jackals as the jackals stole the dried fishes. However, the jackals could withstand the poisons. Since then, the farmers and fishermen have not poisoned any animals and instead pray that their crops and fish cannot be stolen by the animals.  I didn’t see any jackals nor crows on the island when I arrived there because the place is more like a tourist site more than the fishing place now.

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My Journey

 

I went to Gaw Yan Gyi with a friend and we didn’t know whether we would like the island or not in the beginning. But in the end, we fell in love with the place. The journey was tiring as the roads are not developed yet. I felt sick on my way back.

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The road towards Gaw Yan Gyi island

The thing I vividly remember is once we arrived near Nga Yoke Kaung before entering into the mountain ranges, the driver stopped the car and all the crew got off the bus. I thought they were going for toilet, but they were praying at the big tree, lighting candles and scented sticks. It was around 1 am. I think this is how bus drivers usually do so that the bus will be safe in traditional way.

After we arrived at Nga Yoke Kaung Town around 5 am, we sat at the café at the bus stand and had a cup of coffee. We had to wait as the boats are not available till 6 am.

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the cafe at Nga Yoke Kaung

Then we went to the jetty at 6 am. The bike men sent us to Nant Thar Pu jetty and it was a total mistake. It’s because after we crossed the river,  we had to hire the motor bike to go to our hotel.  I realized the other side jetty was too far from our hotel. The journey was spine chilling as the roads are very narrow and sometimes need to slide down the hills very often. I often thought I was going to break my arms or legs if I fall from the bicycle. But the bikers managed very well. The ride was almost 30 minutes and they charged us only 4000 kyats per person. I can say that it is a fair price, but it would be much easier if we chose different jetty which has boats for kway Chaing.  Then the  motor bike takes only 5 minutes to go to hotel from the jetty.

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Sun rise at the jetty

 

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lol, our tired faces

After we crossed the river, we had an uneventful motor bike ride. I could not concentrate much on scenery as I was struggling not to fall off from motor bike. However I would recommend you to ride motor bike at the beach front. It was  phenomenal. I just loveeeeeed that.

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The view along the ride. People used to live on farming and fishing before it became tourist destination

We stayed at the Adventure resort on the first night. The staff are friendly and they even cooked us very delicious prawns and crabs.

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Prawns and crab curries

The bungalow is clean and spacious enough for two people.  No air con in all hotels as there is no electricity supply in the village.

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My refuge from heat

 

The problem of Adventure resort is the bungalows face towards the coconut  trees and not towards the sea. As it is summer, at night, we felt very hot. We couldn’t also open the windows as we are not supplied with mosquito nets. We cannot use the fan as they give us electricity from 6 pm to 12 midnight only. So I sat outside in the armchair and cooled myself. I even thought of sleeping outside, but the tile were to cold to lie without any mattress .   I walked to the beach and lay down on the sand. The wetness of the sand made me feel so much better. I looked at the starry sky. I usually kiss the sand and talk to the rocks as if I was a lunatic. But unfortunately, my friend was near by standing and watching the every inch of increment in tide. She kept on saying “ I will see the water and once the water arrives this line, you need to get up. “. I think she was overly concerned as she rarely go to beach. Sometimes, I just need to be worry free.

 

The next day we hired the boat and went to  “ Late Chaing”, it was named for the stone which looks like a tortoise.

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Lake Chaing

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The sand at Lake Chaing

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The peculiar thing about Late Chaing is the beach is like two steps and forming like miniature waterfall.

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When the tide came up, it brought lots of fish and they can be trapped under the rocks once the water level went down. We found a dead fish trapped under the stone.

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The area is quite rocky and not a good place to swim, but it’s relaxing to watch the tides and mini aquarium inside the rocks where there are lots of trapped fish.

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crabs under the rock

 

 

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People showed me the rock where they regard it as the place belonged to supernatural well being. They believe that area has lots of bowls, plates and pots like 100 years ago. These bowls and plates can be borrowed from the place as long as you return them. Some people said they heard the noises came out from the rock around 2004. They said it was not the sound of waves and different sounds of cutlery and bowls rubbing against each other.

The interesting part is finding snakes. I know it sounds dangerous to try to find snakes. But I really wanted to see them, not to disturb them, but simply curious how they looked like. The next day, we went there again from the pagoda. It took 45 minutes to walk along coastal line. You need to climb 100 steps of the stairs towards pagoda and then got off the stairs towards the trekking.

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our trekking began like that
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it was hot and the scene can be barren as it was summer

 

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bright red fruits , Thu said you can feel itchy forever once you touch it

We started our trekking at 3.30 pm so it was still quite hot and the leaves were dry. I was supposed to go with our guides who were also our taxi drivers. These two gentle men suggested accompanying us as the trekking may be tough for us who are apparently couch potatoes. I really enjoyed the walk  and saw some interesting trees which intertwined with each other.

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Although we planned to go on our own, two boys who were the grand children of pagoda’s guard offered to go with us. They are very familiar with the place and said they like trekking. SO I allowed two of them, the elder one is around 8 years old and younger one is 5 years old. Elder one is Thu and his younger brother is Zwe. They are adorable, Thu is a chatter box and occasionally gives command to his younger brother. Out of the blue, one black dog also followed us and it became a crowd with four adults, two kids and a dog. What a marvelous team! I asked the kids whether the dog is theirs, but the kids said “ Mal Lone” aka Blackie is a dog who will accompany anyone going that trek. The boys know the dog very well although he is a stray. Blackie is apparently a very good guide dog as he usually runs in front of us. When we were left behind too far, he seemed concerned and waited for us patiently. He made sure we use smooth lane. He really is a happy dog because once we reached  the Lake Chaing at the area of Bay, Blcakie rolled on the ground , wiggling his tail. He was apparently on cloud nine.

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our great trekking team
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the path may be tough, but I will not give up

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When we reached “ Lake Chaing” , Blackie left us alone. He didn’t want to follow us to the area  of snakes, I guess. We crossed the sea water and climbed on the big rock to find the snakes. It was hot and I guess snakes do not usually come out during day time. So We squatted down  and searched the snakes under the rock and stones. Thu told me that he found a very big snake with the size of a tree when he was fishing. He had to leave his fishing rod and run.  Then our guide called us to show us the snake. The snake was sliding under the stone leisurely. When we tried to take photo, it did not run away and just kept on moving towards us., I think that phenomenon is a bit strange because snakes will usually run away when people approach them. But that snake, as if it was a celebrity, did not bother flashes form our camera. I left it alone and stood at the edge of the rock , looking at the scenery. Then another guide called us to show many snakes knotted into each other. I gasped and said “ may be they are mating”. Then my little guide “ Thu” said “ no aunty, you can’t say that. She is a mother and she is looking after her children”. I had to try to hide my giggles.

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Amazingly, 5 year old boy Zwe was quite tough and could climb and hop on rocks and puddles efficiently. Sometimes, I was concerned he might fall. When I praised  Zwe, Thu said “ Do you know why he is tough? It’s all because of my training. I trained him which fruit is bad and which is good, which way he should go and which way he shouldn’t. I also forced him to walk as much as he can”. Thu behaved as if he was the General ordering his little brother along the way.  Then we saw people throwing pebbles at the rock and picking up sea snails or clams ( I have no idea how you call that ) . I asked them what they were doing. Thu said people were opening the clams and eating the flesh inside. Some were picking up clams to sell back.  I asked them “ is it tasty ?” and both kids started to nag me to try one.  One of the guys overheard our conversation and offered me flesh to eat raw. I was not sure whether I should because I am asthmatic and didn’t want to have drama of bronchospasm in the middle of nowhere. But I was also tempted as they said it was such a delicacy. Finally, I ate one and it was salty and tasty , not as fishy as I thought. Suddenly, I remembered the notice displayed at the pagoda not to kill any living thing near the pagoda. I felt guilty , but comforted by Thu that the clams would not suffer any kind of pain as it was the lowest form of the planet. What an insight from an 8 year old boy?

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we opened these clams studded to the stones to eat the flesh inside.

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Then we had to go back and it was a pleasant walk because the sun was beginning to set. We could view the beautiful sunset with tides and a stretch of cliffs. At one point, I saw the rock at the bay which exactly looked like a broken bridge.  It made me wonder whether the island was an emerged ancient town which was built thousands of years ago.

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I thought the two long rocks behind me look like a broken bridge
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Can you recognize the broken bridge?

My thoughts are like that. May  be the island was a bustling town with lots of archaeological value thousands of years ago. Then it was covered with water a long time until it emerged again. I had to tell this because I found lots of rocks are quite strange. Some of them looked like a chair and others looked like doors. Some rocks looked like elephant statues. I have never seen that kind of rocks even though I have been to lots of beaches all over the world.

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17352013_1676300609063497_7402481628573184695_n.jpgI felt I was connected to the place as if I was there in my last life. I just knew I was there. Well, before the readers think I am out of my mind, I am going to show you the photos of the beach.

Here are the photos of the places I have taken everywhere in Kway Chaing. The area near the red bungalow is called “ Palin Chaing” and the red bungalows are owned by  “ the Log”,  the most expensive motel in Kway Chaing.  I saw a school of fish were trapped in the rock , restless and swimming to and fro. I wish the tide would come at night and send them back to sea otherwise, they might die.

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The next day, we climbed up the hill near our inn and saw lots of small birds. The birds are called “ Ziwazoe “ in Burmese and the birds make their nest of vomit’s. A lot of people want to drink that for good health. Poor little birdies.

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the view from the small hill
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our hike

I thought I felt tired after the hike and slept under the shade of the stone. It was a nice sunny day. I felt good about everything and dozed off.

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interesting insect under the rock

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IMG20170317083643.jpgThen I sat in shallow water , but I was unable to sit quietly as the waves hit me violently and dragged me back towards the shore. Finally I went towards deeper water and sat peacefully.

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Then, my friend started to nag to get back to shallow water as both of us couldn’t swim. So I thought this is the time to preach her. I told her the stories of people died inside their own house while sleeping as the plane crushed into their houses. And I also told her another story of two girls hit by a car in the shopping mall as a teenager tried to drive the new car which was displayed for sale . The moral is “ People might die any time how cautious you are. But we only live once”. With that, she became quiet and let me do whatever I want.

 

I came back to my inn, showered and indulged myself on the hammock, reading a book called “ Wild”.  When my eyes get tired, I look at the coconut fringed sea shore. What a life !  I just loved every minute of it.

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Overall, I would  rate the island as one of the best islands so far. People now call it as “ Burma’s Maldives”. Well, I would not say that because the sand quality is still not as good as one from Maldives. But you have to go there to see the rocks and to hear the legends of Gaw Yan Gyi especially if you can endure horrible roads and lack of electricity.

Note: I know you come to Burma to enjoy and you might need to save money for other trips.  However, please be kind to locals and at least offer a few tips to those who are honest and hardworking.  Last, please don’t leave behind the rubbish. I gave credit to Haymar Aung for her amazing photographs. You can search her facebook to see her photographs about Burma.

 

 

Thanks for reading

 

Hninn

 

 

Gaw Yan Gyi island , Myanmar , how to go there and where to stay

Gaw Yan Gyi island is situated in Irrawaday division of Burma, Nga Pu Taw Township. I was in doubt when people said how mysterious the island is, but I found out it is really a fairy island and people should go there before the tourists destroy the genuine nature. As this post is going to be long, I am going to divide the blog into two parts. The first one is how to go there and where to stay.

HOW TO GO THERE

You might think you are very good in driving and you might want to drive there. Please don’t do this unless you have four wheel drive and you can drive like “ Fast and Furious”. The road till Pathein is quite ok, but after you pass Pathien, you will suffer a lot of road sickness as the roads are  narrow lanes close  to divine. The scenery may be nice but after watching outside for a while, your head will be spinning as the bus drives up and down the mountains. Luckily, there are two buses running directly to Gaw Yan Gyi and the bus is quite cheap. They charge only 10,000 kyats per person ( You might need to pay more if you are a foreigner ) for one way. The journey takes 9 hours. The roads are not developed yet and some area are still under construction. First , you have to arrive Nga yoke Kaung sub township where you need to take a boat to go to the island.
Here, I will give the phone number of the buses

Name of Bus : Kan Htoo Aung

Name of Bus station : Dagon Ayya  in Yangon ( Hlaing Tharyar Township ), Other bus stops don’t have direct bus to Nga Yoke Kaung.
Phone : +95-9 4211 559 11, +95-9 4211 55922 ( From Yangon to Nga Yoke Kaung) departure time: 8.30 pm
Phone : +95-94900 2539 ( From Nga Yoke Kaung to Yangon ) Departure time : 6.30 pm

Name of Bus : Myat Mi Khin
Name of Bus station ; Dagon Ayya (  yangon, Hlaing Tharyar Township )
Phone : 09-444779309, 09-768612572 ( From Yangon TO Nga Yoke Kaung )
Phone : 09-444779314, 09-768612577 ( From Nga yoke Kaung to Yangon )

You will arrive very early morning at Nga Yoke Kaung town around 5 am. The sampans or boats will not be available till 6 am. But you can take coffee and snack at the café at the bus stand. Some people will ask you to go with mortor bike which can cost you around 7000 kyats. Please don’t do that. The road will be very bumpy and long. We were also misled by the motor biker because they sent us to the wrong jetty. By the way, the motor bike should charge you only 500 kyats  per person to go to the jetty. There are two jetties called Nant Thar Pu jetty and Kway Chaing jetty. Ask your hotel which jetty is nearer to your hotel.  The boat will take around 20 minutes to arrive Kway Chaing where you can have lots of hotels. The boat fare is only 200 kyats per person.

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Nga Yoke Kaung Town ( Photo credit to Hay Mar from facebook )
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The bus station of Gaw Yan Gyi, there are only two bus companies which has direct access to Nga Yoke Kaung.
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Nant Thar Pu jetty
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Enjoyable boat ride at dawn

 

Where to stay

There are various places to stay . But I will start with the most expensive one.
1) The Log hotel
Price : 90,000 kyats per night for two people. If you need extra bed, they charge you 45,000 kyats for one extra bed. Yes, it’s crazy. The hotel is quite isolated and good for people who needs privacy such as Honey Moon goers. But there is no shady trees around the hotel and I guess it is hot in the afternoon. Remember, there is no Aircon in any hotel as there is no electricity on the island. They use engine to have electricity and can get it during night only. It is situated at Pa-lin-Chaing.

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The Log Hotel

Unfortunately, I can’t find the contact of the hotel. If you know it, please comment below.

2) G7 Plage
Price : 50,000 kyats per night for two people, for extra bed 25,000 kyats per person.
For foreigner : 45 US D per night.
Review : The nicest location as the beach is the most beautiful and the best location for wind surfing. You can cycle, ride motor bike or jog just in front of the beach. The bungalows are modern and clean. They have western toilets and rain showers.

Reservation : g7hotelplage@gmail.com
Phone : 09-453 235 252 ( Myanmar ), 09-452 216 685 ( English )

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G7 Hotel Plage
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G7 Hotel plage

3) Adventure resort
Price : 50000 kyats per night for two people and extra bed is 15000 kyats. For the hotel which is a bit far from sea, 40,000 kyats per night . If you want to live on the upstairs, they charge 10,000 kyats extra.

Review: clean, comfortable. The food cooked by hotel chef is nice. Their prawn and crab curries are super delicious.  The hotel does not charge extra for foreigner . The staff are very friendly and will do everything to make you feel comfortable.
Disadvantage : It is very hot as the wind does not blow across the hotel. There is fishy smell at the front beach as the fishermen dry the fishes there. There is a stretch of blue sea  , but not rock formation near by. They give electricity only from 6 pm to 12 midnight while other hotels give from 6 pm to 6 am.

You can look for the contact from facebook page called Adventure Paradise Hotel, Gaw Yan Gyi. It’s always easier to message from Fb messenger.

Contact number : +95- 9444489991,  +95-9444489992

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Adventure paradise 
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Adventure paradise

4) Thirithuta Hotel

Price : 35000 kyats for two people. Extra bed 15000 kyats per person.

They also have tents and cheaper accomodation . For example, you pay only 8000 kyats for one person if you don’t mind to use common toilet and bathroom.
I stayed there for two nights in beach front bungalow and I really recommend it. The place is very near to pagoda and Lake Chaing . They have hammock in front of the beach. They also have beautiful scenery near by and to swim. There is no fishy smell. It is not too hot like Adventure resort. People are friendly
Disadvantage : The food is not so good . I recommend to eat outside or bring your own food there. They also display motor bike fare for various places so that motor bike people cannot cheat you.

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The prices for motor bike
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Thirithuta Hotel

 

5) Win Beach Hotel
It is recommended in one of the website. One bungalow charges only 4,000 kyats for four people. There are two kingsize bed and the bathroom and toilet attached to it. They cook for you like other hotel with fair prices according to review.
Phone : +95-9 49734702, +95-9 250118017

 

6) Family House resort

Price : 40000 kyats per two persons

Review: clean, good accommodation, understaffed, looks like the staff does not know much

Disadvantage : No Western toilet

I saw tents there also. The location otherwise is very nice.

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There are lots of other hotels which I do not mention as I don’t have photos. Please find it in their facebook page for contact.

Boat fares

From Thirithuta to the pagoda, it is only 1000 kyats per person. But if you hire by only two person, they charge you 4000 kyats per person.

Motorbike fares
They can charge up to 10,000 kyats for the whole day. Otherwise, you can only give 500- 1000 kyats for near by places. Some hotels regulate the taxi fares and you should ask advice from your hotel.
There is no available taxis there and motor bike are only available transport. Although, the road is bumpy and spine chilling at certain areas, they are very skillful drivers.

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Phone and internet availability

You can only use MPT phone line there. So please buy one sim card before you go there.

Things to bring
1) Sun screen
2) Sun glasses
3) Hat
4) Mosquito repellent ( not much mosquitoes, but certain hotels for example Adventure and G7 plage do not offer mosquitoes nets . But Thirithuta hotels give mosquitoes nets )

For Foreigners, you need permission from Pathein if I am not mistaken. Please contact the travel agent. Otherwise, I don’t think police will chase you just by visiting there as I saw some foreigners as well.

 

Note: I took some photos from Hay Mar facebook.  Some photos are taken by me.

Please continue reading about myth and legends about island in my blog Gaw Yan Gyi island part II. Thank you

Mergui archipelago/ Myanmar

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Marcus or Harris island

In February 2017, I could tick off one of my bucket lists, travelling to virgin islands of Burma, my mother land.

Mergui archipelago is located in the most Southern part of Burma bordered by Thailand.

The archipelago officially has more than 800 recorded islands. But according to my guide, there are 2000 islands and out of them, only 800 islands are officially recorded, and out of 800, only 200 islands are accessible to the outsiders. fb_img_1488690567190

There are not only islands but also lots of mangroove swamps enriched with diversity of plants and animals. ( the government does not allow foreigners to sleep on the islands. But you can arrange day trip tours. please check before you go)

fb_img_1488686652542There is still no proper rule regarding land ownership and the fishermen build the cottages on the island and can stay there without paying anything to government. The government approves most of the application to build settlement as the region needs to be developed.

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the small island with two houses.

To arrive Mergui islands, I had a flight  to the town called Myeik with Myanmar National  Airline ( unfortunately, it’s as expensive as the flight to BKK ). Myeik is a beautiful town, it’s clean and roads are spacious. There is not much  traffic jams and lots of nice food. And if you are very much into birds, there is a lake where you can watch varieties of birds.

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there are three kinds of birds in this picture,one of them has brown color when they rest and they turn into white color once they fly

fb_img_1488686892822And to see the panorama view of Myeik, you can go to Thein Daw Gyi pagoda to watch the sunset and the amazing view of the Adaman sea.

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panorama view from Thane- Daw – Gyi pagoda

fb_img_1488686921106If you wana try famous cuisine in Myeik, I would recommend “ Kyan Taw” restaurant and “ U Maung Win” Restaurant , phone 098763270. At U Maung Win restaurant, please try pork brain mixed with eggs, It’s yum. And you can order “ Kat Kyay kite” ( fried white color noodles ). For accommodation, I would recommend you  “ Golden sky Hotel” ( telephone 059-41991),

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it’s just 5 to 10 minutes drive from airport, very clean and has a pool. The price is 28000 kyats for Myanmar citizens and 40000 kyats for foreigners per head , if two people, they charge extra 10000 kyats. You can also ask them to arrange airport pick up for you.  It is very easy to get motor bike for your transport if you are alone. They are not costly and bikers are very skilful. I think it’s more fun to ride on bike in open air than in the car. Afterall, the town is not big and you can go everywhere with bike .

From Myeik, you need to arrange boats to go to the island. It takes one and half hour to go to the  nearest island. Mergui travel and tour has very nice boat and its more speedy than other boats.

fb_img_1488686990880We went there with Blue Ocean Star Resort and Travel. The project developer is Kyaw Moe. His cell phones are 09 451022389, 09420709547. Email is kyawmoe2005@gmail.com.

Blue Ocean company is developing Harris island into a comfortable place to stay. They built a cottage where some staff live. They cook, clean the place, do some buildings, and organize the boats.  The staff are multi purpose and one of them even massaged for us at night. They also have clean toilets and enclosed bath rooms. They developed a tube well for fresh water. Before blue ocean arrived that island, an old lady was staying alone selling fresh water to fishermen. Harris island is 1300 feet long and the water is crystal clear.

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They built a bridge where you can look into deep water from the bridge.

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You can also climb the hill where you can see the bird eye view of island.fb_img_1488686848854

fb_img_1488690683424fb_img_1488686819002You can also jungle trek and get lost in the jungles where there are rare flowers exist.

fb_img_1488686813036 There is a very famous traditional drink . They keep the artichoke , squeeze their flash and oil , then mix with beer and drink it.

fb_img_1488686942046A lot of people like it. But we didn’t try because the locals told us it’s kinda fishy.  In contrary to what people said, I didn’t see much fish there. It’s mainly because there are a lot of illegal fishing boats near by. ( I assume illegal and the foreign companies come and buy fish from these boats) I saw a few schools of fish in deep water.  Near the bridge, the sea has lots of artichokes. They can be painful if you accidentally step on them.And if you want to go and see corals, you have to take risk of getting injured by spikes of shells stuck to the stones.

As most of us are not good swimmers, we end up getting injuried walking in the sea at the back of Harris island. I was bleeding profusely and had to get on the boat again.

fb_img_1488687026262 fb_img_1488686716800Usually, it became hot after 9 am unless you want to sit under the shade.received_1352402824805284

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a friend trying to hide from the heat

The sand is very soft and velvety. The water is blue. It’s amazing.  I went up the hill and although, I could climb uneventfully , on the way back,  it’s quite a difficult descend.

fb_img_1488686832647 In the end, I decided to sit down and slide as I was afraid I would slip and fall.

It’s a breezy day. So I decided to dip my feet inside the salty water and feel the tides touch my feet. Suddenly, the crabs ( very beautiful deep green color ) came under the stones and walked around me. They were fascinating. I always have a thing for crabs. If you want to watch them, you have to be very still. Once they can sense vibration, they run away from you.  I savored my solitude with nature and thanked God for guiding me to come to that beautiful island.

At night, we were given two options to sleep, either we could sleep on the benches made of bamboo or sleep in the tents. As we are concerned about mosquitoes ( mind you, it is the malaria endemic area ), we decided to sleep in the tents.

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So the staff prepared tents just in front of the sea. It was amazing. The highlight of the trip is we lie on the benches before going inside the tent and talked about a lot of stuff.

fb_img_1488690665771 fb_img_1488690500142There was a starry sky, it was beautiful. The beach was well lit as a lot of fishing boats anchored near the island and we were surrounded by boats with lights.  Luckily, there was no rain. The weather was perfect. I felt like I found out new friends during the trip because I could talk to my travel partners for a long time at night. So travelling is not all about finding new places, it’s also about finding new people who might become your long lasting friends in the end.

Our tour guide called Aung San Lwin is a cheerful guy, he  has a very good communication skill.  His cell phone is 09782667126, obviously a happy-go-lucky person. He was more excited than us when he saw a school of  Nimo fish. He did not accept the tips and finally, I found out he is not a staff and one of share holders for the business. He is very helpful , but not a typical guide who will watch over you.  He would rather enjoy himself. So you need to watch out danger for yourself if you are with him.

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He brought us to fish farm ( on the way before we arrive islands ) to get fresh fish and cook for us at night.

The tour guide Aung San Lwin arranged all our meals with fresh sea food and the staff can cook very well. Surprisingly, the cost of all sea food meals’are only one tenth of ordinary price there.

We also went to the Main –ma- hla island meaning Beautiful lady island. There is a shrine and a small waterfall. I saw the fishermen are taking water out of waterfall. The water is very cold and refreshing.

The next day, we went to the stone island where you see lots of beautiful stones  as if angles lay the stones there perfectly. The stones has smooth surface and rounded in shape. Some are transformation of shells mixed with lime , white in color. You can see lots of beautiful fish there although its difficult to walk on stones.

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stone beach. Please wear the footware as the stones are hot in the afternoon
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stone beach

Then we headed to the famous Moken village.

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It is quite famous for its native people called Moken or sea gypies. They are trained to be at sea since very young age. Their vision is much sharper than other people under water. They can swim tirelessly with grace. Some claim they can even sleep under water. They can dive up to 30 minutes without coming up. Previously, they are the only resources to supply famous Burmese pearls to the world as they can dive and know locations of clams more than other people. Still, they are struggling even to have a proper school and now the church is being used temporarily as the primary school.

fb_img_1488686584954When we arrived there, all kids came out from church and looked at us.  They were singing in the church in Moken language. We distributed jellies and sweets and they gladly accepted the snacks. In contrary to what I saw in books, most kids have fair skin . I think may be the skin might change once they go out to sea more often. I am glad they are still learning their own language.

fb_img_1488686599768 At times, one of my friends raised up question regarding loss of culture. We know Moken people know the sea like the back of their hands. But my friend wondered whether the tradition and culture is disappearing among young people. Then , the head of Moken village replied him that although the technology seeps inside the village, the kids still learn about the sea from their experience. At the time of Tsunami, the kids who were playing at sea noticed the change of color in the sea, they quickly ran back to the village and alerted the adults. Soon after that, the whole village shifted to the hilly area and escaped from the tides which devoured the whole village.

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Moken boy using two pieces of plastic as oars
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fishing in the small boats

After that, we went to the two faced island. The island is 1800 feet long and very beautiful. By chance, we ran into a crowd who came to island with the ship. They were celebrating a party and even offered us some free food. And some tour guide caught crabs and did barbeque on the island. We were a bit hungry and glad to be able to buy some chicken and salad on the island fortunately. It was not all time event, and by luck, the snack were sold by visitors as well. The island is 1800 feet long and nobody staying on it except hornbills which I saw by chance. It was a big hornbill and flew just above my head while I was sitting on the rock.

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two- faced island
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two-faced island

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two-faced island
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quieter side of two-faced island

We were supposed to go to a few more islands. But our boat was not functioning well because of polluted oil purchased from fishermen. When we arrived “ Don waterfall”, I decided not to go down as I know I am not a well balanced person to walk on the slippery stones. But the sight of waterfall is beautiful.

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Don waterfall
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Don waterfall

fb_img_1488686690641As our boat is not functioning, we came back with another boat and it was faster on our way back.

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We came back with lots of memories and a few cuts here and there on our bodies. I am telling to my friends that I need to go back to the island with my guitar and a stack of books. This is a place which will be forever in my ” must go back ” list.

Hninn

BORACAY island, Phillipines, May 2014

For the first time, Air Asia launched direct flight to the Kalibo town near Boracay island in 2014 and we decided to fly there  in  May. Phillipines has more than 800 islands and Boracay was chosen as the best island in the world in year 2012 ( partially due to a visit by celebs like Brad and Jolie ) .

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A few travelers said some places in Philippines were not safe  but  Boracay contrary to other parts of Philippines is pretty safe and I enjoyed every bit of my holiday there.

More than that, Filipino have warm personality and good English. I blend in very easily and even local tourists thought I was a Filipino and asked me for direction, choosing me among real Filipinos. I chuckled and explained I am not a Filipino, but they said I look like  one. Haha, And I pretty admire women attitude regarding their body. I am overweight and very shy to wear bikinis, while most Filipino women regardless of age and body figure were leisurely strolling along with two pieces. I do adore them and their laughter.

At that time we got 40 ps for one us dollars and food and drinks were quite reasonable even for a tourist place. The first time, I saw color jeeps , I was so fascinated.

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We went to Kalibo with flight  ( it cost us around 250 us D for return flight from Kuala Lumpur ).  From Kalibo, we  had to get a coach . It is around one hour drive to arrive the jetty and from there, we have to get a ferry.

8The only thing I don’t really like about island is the green algae at the beach. They look pretty at sight, but I don’t feel good about them once I read in someone blog mentioning the algae grow excessively because of poor sewage system.  Yuk !

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The water is crystal clear and it’s baby blue, deep blue, light green and deep green.

18 I tried to search itinerary and found out some amazing places to go such as crystal cove island. We are ok to do crazy things, but not adventurous enough to dive from the cliff . Crystal cove is a small island near Boracay with a lot of men made decorations. They beautifully place ornaments such as lanterns, statues all over the island and it is a pretty place to do parties and weddings. And it is the only island you need to pay entrance fee.

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Crystal Cove island

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Crystal Cove’s island, you need to pay for entrance fee

There are lots of interesting boats called Paraw sailing. You need a few people to sail them and it is very nice to be on them at sunset.

58 We went to Puka beach. Puka is the shell in Philippines and the sand is very rough because of fragmented shells.

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Puka beach

We saw a private beach owned by Filipino boxer Manny Pacquiao and it is awesome as he built the house inside the rock.

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I don’t really like Filipino food as it is too sweet and bland for me. They love pork and Italian restaurants are everywhere paired with live bands and reggae singers.

71829398 There was an Italian restaurant called Don Vito and it was awarded as the best restaurant of Phillipines in 2011 . Boracay has McDonald and additionally, they have icecream dipped in mango juice.

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114The length of the island is only 8 km and it was lined with street hawkers, bars , restaurants and street performers.Even with short distance, you can hire the three wheeled cars if your legs tired .  116.jpgRegarding accommodation, I don’t recommend you to book five star hotels as some are quite far from beach. You can get 3 star hotel with only 20 us D per night at the beach front

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beach front hotel with reasonable price
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the hotel we stayed

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I thought activities were cheaper outside the hotel , I was wrong. Our hotel offered better price for island trip as the competition is high. We went out and bought island hopping trips  and turned out the activities are much more expensive if we buy on our own..

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activities of Boracay, the agents will annoy you and hunt you down unless you claim you have already bought tickets

I did some braiding and it was fun , they charge only 4 us D for it while Kani did some artificial tattoo. ( Hotel warned us we need to pay fine if we print tattoo and sleep on their bed without shower ).

We waddled to Willy’s rock  through shallow water. Willy’s rock is a natural tourist attraction, oddly shaped volcanic formation in station 1 ( the island is divided into three stations ). It has a small chapel at top with Virgin Mary statue inside.

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Willy’s rock
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volcanic remains

The town is very clean and well maintained, it has many cute bars and cafe.

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cute coffee bar
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the hotel inside the town, which is  only a few minutes walk from beach
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clean and spacious roads
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stores are everywhere

We decided to do something for fun. One of my friends suggested to walk on the underneath of ocean wearing oxygen tank and suit called helmet diving. I objected as I know I would freak out. We decided to go for fly fish, a ride on the inflated balloon with handles linked to a speed boat driven a slightly insane boat man. He made us literally fly in the air as he drove the boat crazy and the balloon lifted up. We were screaming, me not out of pleasure, but rather fear of impending fall and being eaten alive by either sharks or unknown marine fish while my friend Kani was crying out of excitement and pleasure. I held the handle tightly as I know a slip for  a second would make me fall into the ocean.  Kani thought it was so fun. Belinda barely managed to hold it as she is small and I was worried she would fall. Later, she said, she always falls whenever she tries banana boat and fly fish is far more scarier than banana boat. At night, I got severe pain at the knuckles and elbows because of holding very tightly to the handle.

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before screaming and disastrous ride 
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Thank God, we didn’t fall

At sunset, we had very good massage and had some cocktails at the bar.

89 I guess everyone in Boracay can sing. They are very talented in singing and playing instruments.  It was a very nice trip and good to write about it although it has been 2 years since I went there.

1448416Thanks for reading.