Isle of Man part IV ( Cregneash village )

Cregneash
Cregneash village

The Cregneash village lies near Port Erin which is south part of island called Isle of Man .

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The entire village was left as the way it was since 200 years ago just to attract tourists and to preserve the life style of villagers in peaceful nature. Cregneash has become an open-air folk museum. The surrounding fields are now once more in cultivation and visitors can again see the landscape of old time again. Cregneash is also a living village where people live and work.

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very pretty white houses of Cregneash with thatch roof

 

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Cregneash area surrounded by grazing fields and hills

Visitors can see traditional rural skills and crafts being practiced. They can learn new things and remember some old skills such as milking cows, reaping and ploughing using ox wheel carts  etc.

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the shed storing some equipment used by villagers

 

The Cregneish folk were just like a great fisher-family entirely left to themselves and a little disturbed by the outside waves of modern life with its rush and hectic pace. They were frugal, hardy and sea-toiling men, whose lives were divided between mackerel fishing and the harvesting of their little oat and potato crofts. ( Charles Reader-1901)

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When you walk inside the small village, you can instantly fee the ease and peaceful surroundings. You can browse inside the displayed houses and sheds which store tools for agricultural and construction. You can see the small cozy bedrooms with weaved fabric on the bed and little cots for babies etc.

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the bed room of typical Cregneash family
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the living room with fire inside
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like other parts of Europe, collection of Chinaware show wealth of family
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Living room of another Manx house

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It gave me the impression that the villagers are pious Christians as I can see displays of quotes about God in the rooms of houses.

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a small church for community.

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inside the church

Other interesting animals you can see are Manx Loaghtan Sheep which has multiple horns ( having from 2 to 6). This breed is native to the Isle of Man and is one of the rarest breeds of sheep in the British isles, nearly becoming extinct in 1950 ( only 43 surviving ) ,in 1956 The Manx National Trust acquired their first sheep and started a breeding program to save the breed.

loghtan sheep

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The name LOAGHTAN comes from two Manx words “ lugh” ( mouse) and “ dhoan” ( brown ) which described the light brown colour of the sheep.

They are very hardy mountain breed, well able to withstand harsh winters and they regularly produce twin lambs. They are an official rare breed but as they become more popular, their numbers are rising, so providing an assured future for this unique animal. Now, there are still fewer than 1,500 registered breeding females in the United Kingdom.

Another distinguished animals you can see in Isle of Man especially Cregneash village is the Manx cat which are entirely tailless or only have a small stub of a tail. The animal originates from Isle of Man , with a naturally occurring mutation that shortens the tail. They were known in the island since early 19th century. There are lots of legends explaining why Manx cat are tailless and some believe Manx cats are hybrid between cats and rabbits referring to the cabbit” folktale.

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One of the reason Cregneash culture is maintained and  preserved is because of well known Manx poet called Ned Beg Hom Ray ( Edward Faragher ) who grew up in Cregneash and devoted whole life to Manx language and poetry. His family lived in Cregneash for many years, in particular in the tiny cottage which is now displayed as the museum.

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He became famous outside Cregneash because of his talent for writing poetry and hymns in Manx, his translations of Aesop’s Fables into Manx and his numerous contributions to Charles Reader’s Manx folklore collections.

Faragher family were a family of fishermen for generations untold. There was little English taught and known in Cregneash, his mother being the only person who could converse with strangers. His father was a fair scholar, and wrote all the letters to the Cregneash people, and that was a great thing then. The family being large-there were twelve children-he had to go to sea very young and joined his father’s boat, fishing with him for seven years . ( Charles Reader-1901)

For a short time, he went to Liverpool to become a safe-maker, working amongst Welshmen, who were worse English speakers than himself, and he learnt but little English there. His longing, however , for the sea and his heather-clad hills was too over-powering , and he returned again to Cregneish, and fished for mackerel at Kinsale and on the West coast of Ireland for 25 spring seasons. He has been shipwrecked and narrowly saved and weathered great storms in his rough voyages. ( Charles Reader-1901)

They are dwelling in the high, rocky upland, amidst purple heather and gorse, and you can see the wild dashing and splashing breakers, and hear the roaring from the sea caves. The winter time is there rough and desolate, and the fishing is then resting, and they draw closer to their glimmering turf fires to tell weird stories and gruesome legends. It was here in this mountain loneliness, so rich in natural scenery, that he grew up, and there is no man in the island that loves his native soil more intensely , or is fonder of the contemplation of nature. ( Charles Reader-1901)

The people of Cregneash gathered a great deal at other people’s houses, and one of their favorite diversions was the telling of stories about fairies and ” bugganes”…. heard people declare that they had seen the fairies in the form of little men in red caps. Bugganes are monsters covered with coarse hair and have red scary eyes.

The ” buggane” stories were very frightening to the children, and some were told with the idea of keeping children out of mischief.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buggane

When I went to Cregneash in April, some actors were there to display the exact picture of the village 100 years ago and I could take some pictures of them.

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some actors wearing like in World war II

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Near Cregneash, you can also see the Manx artist house with big hand statue, in memory of Edward Ashton Cannell.

Manx artist house

 

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If you have time, you can enjoy a cream tea at the Cregneash tea room in the village. Make sure you bring cash as they cannot accept  credit cards.

 

For me, Cregneash is a must when you visit Isle of Man.

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Vincent vanGogh museum ( 7th may 2018)

I visited van Gogh museum today without any information prior. I love arts but I have no sense of understanding about complicated art . So I bought a ticket from online and thought I would meet a tour guide at the entrance but I found none in the end. It was a chaos as I was also five minutes late for my entrance time. I texted to the tourguide but did not get any . I was panic when I did not get reply from the tour guide.I thought the guide would leave me alone and I would not be able to enter into museum. People were queing outside and it was such a lovely day as the temperature was 27C . One of the ladies even arrived ten minutes later than her arrival time. But the museum staff welcomed us and said its ok to arrive a bit late .  I went inside the museum with other people after showing my online ticket. For audio guide, I needed to pay extra 5 euros as it was not included in my online purchase.

Since from the beginning, I opened audio and I was blown away by detailed collections of his art work plus letters written by him to his brother and other artist. In the end, someone like me who knew nothing about Van goGh ended up being emotional after reading and observing all his work.

The fact that he only sold one painting during his short life span did not console me either. I listened to every audio and I was teary in the end. The ticket mentioned it was one and half hour tour but I spent three hours there looking at his paintings . So I recommend the visitors to have proper rest before going there so that you can spend more time there with clear mind.

In brief, Van goGh was born in 1853 and died in 1890 at the age of 37.  His Father was a pastor who was a devoted protestant.
Vangoh had two brothers and three sisters. His inappropriate behavior as the eldest son made his parents worried. He was a child who spent many hours outdoors observing nature. His parents tried to instill their values of hardwork and getting good reputation as a family into their children. Van Gogh uncle was an art dealer and Vangoh tried to work with him with little success and he was asked to leave the business. His honesty did not give benefit to the business. However his brother became a successful art dealer in Paris and Theo supported Van Gogh both financially and emotionally.
Vangoh and his dad had different opinions on religion and in his letter to Theo, he wrote his reluctance to move back into parents house . He wrote they would regard him as a big dirty shaggy dog which barks all the time. However, he drew the picture of his dad worn out bible one year after his dad’s death.

After his failure in business as an art dealer, his dad tried to put him under religious guidance to follow his footstep as a pastor. Van gogh studied Theology and moved to  , a poor mining village in Belgium. He became emotionally too involved with minors and his religious leaders decided he was not fit to become a pastor.

His true calling as an artist came only when he was 27 and he started studying arts by reading books about colors and observing other people works. He used pen, pencils, chalks and inks. Sometimes, he made his own pencil with great satisfaction. He drew 1100 artworks and only half of them is now in his museum. Theo saw his sketches and encouraged him to devote to painting. Instead of paying him monthly, Theo accepted his paintings and paid him for them or exchanged his paintings with other artists paintings.

His systematic planning and observation contrasted with his impulsive and emotional life of artists. He was also not a solitary artist and wanted to be in touch with other artists whom he greatly admired especially Paul Gaugin and Emile Bernard. He wrote letter to another artist Paul Sgnac with affection and gratitude in 1889   after Paul’s visit to him while he was unwell. He wrote that “ the best consolation, if not the only remedy , is , it still seems to me, profound friendships. Thank you again for your visit, which gave me so much pleasure”.

He lived with his parents in Nuenen, a rural poor countryside as he had nowhere to go when he turned 30 which was 3 years after his artist life.
Van Gogh loved rural life. He wrote to his parents that “a peasant who work hard and fight during his work is a civilized person. The more you go into urban life, the more you go into darkness of uncivilization, stupidity and wickedness. Peasant life is quieter , more peaceful and better. Even if they can be cheap to each other, they do not do as badly as they do in cities”.

The reason why we know everything about Van Gogh was he wrote 820 letters and most of them towards Theo, his confidant. VAN goGh was not only a great artist but also a talented writer. In his letters, Van Gogh emerges as an intelligent , impassioned man with a great thirst for art and literature. Sometimes; his enthusiasm got the better of him, such as in his religious period ( 1876-1879) . He could hold forth with great zeal, and in so doing lost sight of reality. In vincent days, letters were delivered 2 to 3 times per day and he replied his brother immediately the day after he received his letter in Hague. He sometimes was totally out of money and could afford to buy stamp only with support from Theo.

In Nuenen, Vangoh was 30 plus and he drew everyday pictures of countrymen and women and their children. He said the country women who are exposed to sand, wind and sun are prettier than ladies. He admired their strength , simple life  and earthy life.

He  tried to go to Antwerp , Belgium and Paris to study arts . He met great artists in Paris and realized his Dutch work was too simple. He tried to learn from other artists about modern arts  and he also bought many graphic arts from Japan to study then in details. The japanese artists greatly influenced his work.

He appointed a house called My little Yellow house in Arles , France with the aim of inviting various artists to have art community. Only Paul Gauguin came after many invitations and lived with him in 1888. The yellow house is one of his famous paintings and it depicited how much he enjoyed life that time. There was a restaurant left to his studio where he ate supper everyday. His friend ,a post man lived with family near to his yellow house and all family members became his subjects for portrait painting. He became close to post office staff as he needed to communicate with his brother by post .

Van gogh had done many self portraits for economical reason. At that time, it was expensive to use live models.He used different colors for his eyes . He also painted flowers, fruits, landscapes and trees. He also painted sculptures.He wanted to become a painter of peasant life when he was in Nuenen. He once painted sunflowes in three different tints of yellows. The job had the best result and he was very satisfied and announced that he should be a painter of  sunflowers. Sunflowers are earthy and vibrant. When he died, his brother put sunflowers in his coffin.

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Apart from ordinary people, he painted prostitutes in dignity and admiration. He also asked his brother to buy a painting of prostitue drawn by another artist.

Paul Gaugin and Vangoh  relationship clashed when thry lived together. Two artists had different approach to arts. Paul made arts based on imagination and Van Gogh painted from real life. They had several rows although they admired each other. Paul left yellow house after a serious argument with Van Gogh. Van gogh developed hallucinations and cut his left ear after his friend departure. He presented his ear to a prostitute who called a police. His doctor diagnosed him as having epilepsy with acute mania. His neighbours made a petition to expel him out of yellow house as they found him wandering neighborhood confused. He admitted himself to Mental Institution after second attacks . Even when he was being admitted, he painted landscape of neighborhood such as orchards in blossoms. He wrote that he was allowed to roam neighborhood when he was not very ill.
Van Gogh spent final months of his life in rural Auvers- sur-Oise, near Paris . He painted 75 paintins in 70 days Van Gogh portrayed nature in all of its manifestations; gardens with full of flowers, a close up of waving wheat, and panoramic landscapes filled with emotion  For him, nature was sacred, a sanctuary from which to draw solace, or region strength. He created his masterpiece called starry night while he was not allowed to go outside the room. He painted starry night observing stars behind the iron barred window. It was phenomenal, blue sky mixed with yellow.

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After his hospitalization in the asylum in Saint-Remy, van gogh felt like ‘broken pitcher’ which cannot be amended even so, in between his bouts of mental illness; he worked on steadily and courageously to become a better artist. If he was not allowed to work outside, he painted the view from his room through iton barred window. Or he explored garden where he found endless subjects.

In 1890, he shot himself at chest with a pistol in a field near Auvers and died two days after that with Theo beside him. Twenty people of his acquaintances and friends attended funeral. His family could not due to short notice. It was a chaotic event as the pastor refused to make religious event for his funeral as he took his own life. VAN Gogh who was the son of the pastor did not have a pastor at his funeral. However, he claimed he was lucid when he shot himself and he always wanted to end the life that way. It was a bit strange for me but he kept painting even with his deadly injury.
THE LAST painting he drew was named the roots and it showed his confidence and ability to find beauty and magic in daily life. He was found dead hoding his easel.
My favorite painting is called wheatfield with crows. Van gogh regard wheat as a symbol of eternal cycle of life. Its being sown and grown and reaped in day life. Its like human death.

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Unfortunately, his brother died only six months after his death with syphilis at the age of 32. Theo behaved as the owner of the drawings and paintings that his brother sent him . Theo was distressed by Van Gogh death in july 1890. His widow 28 year old Jo Van Gogh_ bonger inherited collection of arts and with her effort of selling and lending his paintings to museum, his arts became well known . After Jo death in 1925, Vincent williem, the nephew of Van Gogh  created the Vincent vanGogh foundation and devoted himself to realising the Van Gogh museum , where the family collection found their permanent home in Amsterdam.

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